Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Meanwhile, back in the jungle...

...well, really in the high plains.

Serian Ngare

A stupendous journey of discovery and I had internet, even on the plains!

The other reviewers can tell you about the great accommodations, location and lovely staff. I'd like to focus on the great driver and spotter I had in my company for 6 days, 5 nights, all to myself! I learned so much about the wonderful, kind and hospitable Masai people.

I was having orientation in the vehicle as we left the airstrip and Sam said we might see some creatures on the way to camp in the middle of the day. Oh yes, we did!

There was so much activity just on the way to camp. I saw herds of zebra, antelope and prides of big, fat, sleeping lionesses, tired and digesting, under a bush. We drove so close to them I was in awe. I was so struck, a part of me wanted to reach out or step down from the vehicle to pet them but I snapped out of it! We also saw a small herd of giraffe peeking over the treetops. Incredible. And this is how it started

Sam, the soft spoken driver, gave me lots of information, as my questions never stopped. There was so much I wanted to learn. A gentle soul, with great insight and wisdom not just of the bush, but when we shared meals I learned much about him, too. He understood how eager I was to be out as much as possible so he tailored the game drives from dawn until after dusk with perhaps a stop back at the camp for an hour or two in the afternoons.

I was under the impression from research beforehand that the afternoons were meant to sit around Camp. NOT.

So we stayed out. One day we had a late breakfast under a tree overlooking the plains that was just magnificent. See my pics. Other days I had asked cook to prepare scrambled egg sandwiches so I could dine as we drove. I'm a New Yorker so eating and driving is natural for me. This way, I didn't miss an animal. And did I see animals!

After some lunch and within ten minutes of walking on the perilous footbridge over the hippos to the Land Cruiser, Sam and John, a sweet, knowledgeable 22 year old maran, which means Maasai warrior, in his tribal robes, were pointing out ellies, zebras, and a stray hippo that was grazing and on his way back to the river next to camp. Then I saw countless Thompson gazelles and herds of buffalo. The concentration of animals in this part of Kenya, the Mara North region, is simply incredible. I learned so much about the people as well. John told me all about the process of becoming a warrior and also about becoming a certified guide. I think part of John's expertise lies in his instincts as well as what he's been taught.

One late afternoon I said I'd like to see a leopard. Within 20 minutes, we spotted one! Incredible? Yes. I asked them if they'd set this up. Of course not. But I had thought for a moment they were taking the mick.

One morning before breakfast, we drove very close to a large pride of about 15 lions resting under some bushes and trees. I had stood on the seat and was photographing them through the opened roof. Slowly they got up and started to walk away. Ok. Then I got a tap from John so I looked at him and he pointed in the opposite direction. A herd of elephants were silently plodding through and shooed them away! Kings of the jungle? Almost.

Then I realised how close the ellies were to the vehicle! Very, very close. Within 5 feet. And we were surrounded by them. OMG. And they are yuge, as the President-Elect, Donald Trump, would say! I thought, this is it, but they didn't mind us and kept munching away at the leaves and grass and plodding through. There were about 30 of them including a handful of precious babies. See my pics. I was dumbstruck. Sooo close. And a baby came right toward me! Great photo! After they passed through, I took a breath, I asked if they would charge. As long as we stay in the vehicle, we're ok. They see the vehicle as another big animal and give it respect. Ok, cool.

I'd like to give a big thank you to these marvellous men who took me from one incredible close encounter to the next. Check my review of the sister camp, Serian nkoromobo, for more delicious details.

Also, I suggest, as was suggested to me, to rent a real digital camera and a 400 lens. I took great iPhone pics, which you'll see here, but I have even more incredible pix from the rental. I also rented a pair of 10x42 binoculars which were incredible! I saw close ups of the cats that were at a distance, namely the leopard and then the mama cheetah. In next review!

Another recommendation is be aware what time of season. I went after the Great Migration as I didn't want to see animals stampeding and getting killed by their own and crocs. I had both camps to myself!

Also a nod to a lovely mute young man at camp. He noticed I was looking in the river for the hippos one afternoon so he showed me down the path to tent 4, also along the river. We walked to the edge of the embankment and he put his hands to his mouth and called out, Tarzan-style. All of a sudden, about 20 hippos lifted their heads from the water and responded in low growls! Dumbstruck again! I wished trip advisor let me post videos! Simply amazing! I hope the staff tell him about my review. Love you all and thank you for a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I'll never forget.

Cheeky tree monkeys stole my toast when I was dining on my deck and I managed to film it. Hysterical.

Great trip, outstanding actually. I had a blast and learned and saw so much. Spend the money, it's well worth it!

Serian nkoromobo

Super Moon Spectacular

I was quite fortunate to have Sam and John, driver and spotter, with me the entire time in the bush. We had traveled from Serian Ngare, check my other review there, to another unbelievable campsite perched on the edge of the Mara River.

Comprised of only 4 well-decorated tents and a bucket shower that I was dying to try, the mess tent was lovely for lunch on my arrival, but breakfast under the rising sun and dinner served under the Super Moon with candlelight, al fresco, was quite impressive. I will never forget such an enchanting evening.

Nor will I forget the spectacular game drives. We met a Kenyan game warden with a fellow from Cheetah Forever, who told us a general spot where a mother cheetah and her cubs were last spotted. This terrain was vast and open. I could see for miles. Then John, the Maasai spotter, spotted her! I had to pull out the binoculars as she was on an elevated ridge  staring to the horizon, head held magnificently high, at least several hundred yards away. She blended in well with the dried grasses but I saw her and then her two babies frolicking nearby! And then mama walked away gracefully with the babies in tow. Wow.

Then we went over a ridge to an even greater expanse of land where I thought I saw black dots on the grass. Then I realised I saw thousands of wildebeest grazing. Sam said at least 3k, maybe 4. I have never seen anything like this. The line of these big lumbering animals seemed like it went on for at least a mile. Very impressive to see so many animals at once. I've never seen anything like this in my life! There were many zebra, gazelle and others with them too, all co-existing rather nicely.

Then I saw a troop of baboons which was rather comical in a different area.

We had sundowners on a cliff overlooking about a dozen crocodile sunning themselves at the edge of the river. I was finally allowed out of the vehicle to peer down at them. Seriously creepy. Big, I mean huge, and ominous and so prehistoric. I had the creeps. Whoosh. One misstep and it would be over. Exciting, to say the least.

This is a luxurious small camp with excellent cuisine and hospitality and the game drives are absolutely spectacular with Sam the driver and John, the Maasai Warrior (maran), who were great and knowledgeable company and dined with me when we were at camp as I was the only guest. I just soaked up all the knowledge and culture from them that I wouldn't have received if I was on a tour. Please check my other review as well: Serina Ngare. I strongly suggest you do it this way, plan it out yourself and not be scared off by tour operators telling you you must do a tour. I love Kenya!